The Hallowed Halls of Kinderhook

Richard Mosse, Everything Merges with the Night, 2015, Digital C-Print, 164x280 inches. 

Jack Shainman Gallery opened its newest gallery, The School, in Kinderhook, just two years (and three stunning exhibitions) ago. The 30,000 square foot exhibition space is, itself, a work of art. One gets the misleading feeling that the former high school was left untouched in its conversion to an art gallery—as if its generous hallways and classrooms were simply stripped down to the underlying plaster and concrete.   

The Summer 2016 exhibition, “A Change of Place,”  features Pierre Dorion, Hayv Kahraman,  Garnett Puett and Richard Mosse.

Pierre Dorion's minimalist, photo-realistic paintings depict the very doorways and windows of the exhibition space—a former high school. He explains "My preference is for formally spare, very minimalist works, in which the boundaries between architecture and the artwork fade away in the painting.”

In her own words, Iraqi emigré, Hayv Kahraman's work explores "the psyche of a refugee, and that sense of detachment you have from your land that you’ve had to leave behind."

Fourth generation beekeeper Garnett Puett collaborates on his sculpture with tens of thousands of honey bees who fill the void of iron sculptures with wax comb or, in one instance, entomb rifles in their cabinet.

The tour-de-force of this show, however,  is Irish photographer Richard Mosse's oversized photos of war-torn regions of the world. You undoubtedly saw his images of U.S. troops occupying the destroyed palaces of Uday and Saddam Hussein a decade ago.  A film accompanying this exhibition explains how his latest, and most stunning, work, Infra, captures the conflict-ridden rainforests of the Democratic Republic of Congo with Kodak Aerochrome film to render the plant chlorophyll in vibrant hues of red and pink. Mosse tells The British Journal of Photography "I wanted to confront this military reconnaissance technology, to use it reflexively in order to question the ways in which war photography is constructed."   

Richard Mosse, Hunches in Bunches, 2011, Digital C-Print, 88x140 inches

25 Broad Street, Kinderhook, NY 12106
tel. +1 212 645 1701 fax. +1 212 645 8316
Open by appointment only during installation.
Gallery hours: Saturdays, 11am-5pm; and by appointment.

Escaping Time in Chatham, New York

When you walk down the main street of Chatham, New York today, you can almost imagine the daily life of its Dutch and Quaker settlers.  

Once the epicenter of interstate railways, It is a place of history that is in no way lost in time.

Today it boasts the membership-driven, independent Crandell Theatre which opened its doors as a 30cent per show vaudeville house on Christmas Day in 1936.  Across the street is the beautiful and similarly independent Chatham Bookshop which also houses an art supply shop and gallery. 

Bimi's Cheese is a delightful stop for cheese and all its accoutrements—chocolate, jam, bread. (Join the grilled cheese club to reward yourself for every visit to Bimi's grilled cheese bar.) 

Down the street in James Knight's shop Something's Gotta Give where he beautifully curates word work by local artisans—including many pieces by woodworkers Martin Zelonsky and Frank Grusauskas and the ceramics of Kathy Wismar.

Take a stroll past the brewery, liquor shop, clothing and shoe store, Belgian linen shop, yarn store and more up and down the main street of this beautiful Columbia County town. 

 

The Fly-in Pancake Breakfast

More than a dozen years ago, we were tooling around the back roads of the Hudson Valley in an MG Midget when an experimental aircraft buzzed over head. It looked like a lawn mower with wings - not much bigger than our car. A week later we saw the contraption being pulled behind a truck and followed it to a grassy airstrip. As my husband fearlessly took a ride—climbing a thousand feet above the Hudson River—I chatted up one of the pilot's students with feet firmly planted on the ground. 

He introduced us to Chapter 146  of the Experimental Aircraft Association (EAA) which hosts a bi-annual—Spring and Fall—fly-in pancake breakfast at the Kline Kill Airport (NY1) in West Ghent, New York. 

Year after year the event grows bigger and bigger. Dozens of planes—from a shiny silver Cessna to a lipstick red Stinson Flying Station Wagon— line both sides of the green, grassy-lined air strip. 

Sitting across from a total stranger at communal tables eating plates heaped with buttermilk pancakes, eggs, and bacon, it's not uncommon to hear someone ask "what did you folks fly-in this morning?". Alas our MG has not sprouted wings.

Dungeons & Dragons circa 1800

In my elementary school, my son and his friends invented a card game called 'Pocket Fighters' re-dubbed 'Creature Capture', making their own hand-drawn playing cards which they stuffed in their pockets, battling and trading on the playground. They played for years, sometimes just trading stories about the characters while walking home from school—until they discovered Pokémon. Years later, in middle school, my son has discovered Dungeons and Dragons (a game totally off my radar in the 70s). As with the earlier card games,  what he loves about it is creating characters, fabricating stories. And I was so touched to see his interest come full circle the weekend he insisted on pulling out quill pens he'd made with found feathers with his father (yes, they're that creative) to hand draw a map together. We invented territories, clans, obstacles, bodies of water and then our characters before combining our strengths to achieve our collective mission.

Lounging @porchesinnmassmoca

The galleries of MASS MOCA —once home to light manufacturers, a textile mill, and electronics plant—look past the Hoosic River  to the long, continuous porch of the 19th Century Victorian row houses that make up the Porches Inn.

While we come to North Adams, Massachusetts for the art—including the Tadao Ando-designed museum, The Clark, in neighboring Williamstown—we stay for The Porches. It never disappoints—from the beautifully appointed rooms, to the 24/7 year-round outdoor pool, to the s'mores kits for the fire pit up the hill and the generous breakfast. 

The Inn is charmingly designed with liberal use of wainscoting, a modern take on Shaker chair rails, simple window dressings, claw foot tubs, painted wood floors and walls decorated with mismatched plates and found paintings.

North Adams offers a few nice restaurants. As does nearby Williamstown which also boasts a 100-year-old independent, single-screen film theater

Apple Lemon Clafoutis

In a traditional clafoutis, black cherries of the LImousin region of France are put into a dish — pits and stems intact—then covered with a flan-like batter and baked. The pits themselves lend an almond-like flavor to the dish. Eduoard de Pomaine's delightful 1930 French Cooking in Ten Minutes: Adapting to the Rhythm of Modern Life includes the classic recipe.

In this apple lemon clafoutis—apples, spices and brown sugar are topped with custard, baked in a jelly roll pan, and then doused with fresh lemon juice.

Embracing the spirit of de Pomaine, we've been experimenting wildly - baking a banana clafoutis baked in a Spanish cazuela. For dramatic effect, you can bake the clafoutis without fruit, watch it dramatically expand like a soufflé and serve topped with fresh berries, lemon juice, and a few teaspoons of sugar.

Apple Lemon Clafoutis

Preheat oven to 450F

Slice four apples

Blend together:

  • six eggs
  • 1 Tablespoon vanilla
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 1.5 cups flour
  • 1.5 cups milk

Put jelly roll pan with 8 Tbs unsalted butter into preheating oven. Once butter is melted, layer apple slices on pan, sprinkle with roughly 1/4 cup brown sugar, 2 Tablespoons mixture of cinnamon, clove, ginger, nutmeg.

Pour batter on top of fruit. Bake in oven 20 minutes or until the sides pouf up.

Add juice of one lemon to the top of the finished clafoutis (and a sprinkling of sugar if you like). 

 

The Millefleurs - Thousand Flower Garden at Met Cloisters

The Metropolitan Museum of Art's "Met Cloisters" is perched on four acres in Fort Tryon Park overlooking the Hudson River. The four 12th Century French cloisters house 2,000 pieces of Romanesque and Gothic arts and architecture. Part of the collection are four beautifully curated courtyard gardens—all a joyful foil to the cold austerity the Medieval interiors.

In the past year, the Trie Garden was completely restored. This garden was originally designed to mimic the gardens of the Cloisters' prized Medieval Unicorn Tapestries' own millefleurs (thousand flour) garden. Now the courtyard garden has been redesigned for "four-season-interest". In mid-September, the blooming flowers and contrasting foliage are spectacular.

Met Cloisters' Managing Horticulturist, Caleb Leech, explains in great detail how his team used the garden as a canvas of their own in a recent blog post. He explains: "The inclusion of our wild garden in the midst of a cloister adds a particular joy for gardeners. The enameled mead, or flowering meadow, which is thought to be a modern trend in gardens, was clearly beloved by those in the Middle Ages. In yet another way, gardens and plants bring us closer to our predecessors." 

The Cloisters is open seven days a week except Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year's days. A contribution is suggested but, ultimately, MET museums allow you to pay what you can. And a ticket to the Cloisters will grant you same-day admission to The MET Fifth Avenue and the contemporary collection at the MET Breuer.

99 Margaret Corbin Drive
Fort Tryon Park, New York, NY 10040Phone: 212-923-3700

Open Seven Days a Week
March–October: 10 am–5:15 pm
November–February: 10 am–4:45 pm

Charting growth

A child's growth is measured by so many increments—first words, first steps, first foods. First day of school, first scrape on the knee. And along the way we're compelled to mark their height on doorways, window moldings, kitchen cabinets. When in early labor with my son I was stretching and looking out a french glass door at the gravel rock garden beyond. And I saw a tuft of pine tree—no more than three inches tall. I chose that door to chart his growth (two inches while off at sleep-away-camp this summer, five inches in the past five months!). The tree continues to grow (too close to the house), eclipsing him in height. I don't have the courage to move it, just like I'll never have the courage to wash those measurements from the wall. He'll have to do it someday—and perhaps he'll appreciate that his growth in that home was far more than physical. That he learned values to instill in his own children he'll measure in similar increments.

Foraging the Union Square Green Market

New York City's Green Markets started out as an experiment in 1977.  John McPhee's New Yorker article "Giving Good Weight" describes the then twelve-month-old experiment in exquisite detail.

Today the Union Square Market alone brings fresh produce to the city from dozens of farms four days a week. In one week, our urban 'foraging' might result in:

  • a breakfast of sunny-side-up eggs with olive oil and thyme, sliced baguette with butter and fresh strawberries
  • a lunch of garlic cheddar cheese, pesto & ripe tomato sandwiches on a baguette  with cucumber spears and a peach

  • a dinner of tri-colored pasta, cherry tomatoes and goat cheese

  • a dessert of greek yogurt with strawberries and honey

It is entirely possible to stock your home entirely from the Union Square Greenmarket which operates four days a week (and where you can compost your kitchen scraps). Some favorite purveyors include:

 

 

The ever toothsome bucatini with artichokes and capers

Bucatini's long, hollow, toothsome noodles are so satisfying. They make a great spaghetti aglio, olio, e peperoncino (Italy's answer to chicken soup).

Another favorite is a one-skillet Bucatini tossed with olive oil, garlic, capers, and artichokes straight from the jar. 

In a large, deep skillet, bring the following to a boil over medium-high heat-stirring occasionally for eight minutes until the sauce thickens:

  • five cups water
  • 1 pound bucatini
  • 2 Tablespoons olive oil
  • 1 sprig of lemon thyme
  • 1 clove garlic
  • 1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes
  • 2 teaspoons sea salt

Stir in the juice and zest of one small lemon, two eight-ounce jars of artichoke hearts (drained) and 3 tablespoons salt-packed capers (drained and rinsed).

Serve immediate with more red-pepper flakes, freshly grated parmesan and bread crumbs (if you are carb loading).

 

A Plant's-Eye View of the World

Michael Pollan has written more than a half dozen books on humans' essential relationship to plants. But my favorite remains, The Botany of Desire: A Plant's-Eye View of the World.

In The Botany of Desire,  Pollan looks at four epic tales—the Irish Potato Famine, Johnny Appleseed, the Dutch Tulip mania and the ongoing debate around marijuana. And he illustrates just how these particular plants thrive largely because of their successful domestication of us!

Our mutually beneficial relationship with these plants has helped them thrive sometimes at our own expense: our reliance on a monoculture of potatoes, for example, caused a mass famine and emigration from Ireland;  the planting of crab apples in America encouraged alcohol consumption among early settlers;  tulips leveled the 17th century Dutch economy;  and marijuana still sparks political debate.   Pollan is a thoughtful and accessible writer. His Food Rules - especially as illustrated by Maira Kalman - is another great read.

Vote with your gum

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I really wish I had a pack of Juicy Fruit when I encountered 'Gum Election' on the streets of SoHo during the 2012 election.

This clever, short-lived street art project encouraged people to keep their cities clean while reminding them to vote on election day.

Volunteers downloaded the posters, wheatpasted them to the walls of their fair cities and sent in photos of their constituents 'votes'. The project extended voting (with gum) beyond national borders. During the election of the 45th president of the United States - Gum Election found fans as far afield as Canada and Belgium.

We hope the projects' artists, Stefan Haverkamp,  James Cooper and Hedvig Astrom are working up a poster of Hillary v. Trump for the fall (so that we don't have to)!

We have a small army ready to plaster them all over New York City, Detroit,  Portland, and maybe Mexico City.

Citibike route: Brunch to Bouldering

Our new favorite route to ride a Citibike is from brunch at the South Street Seaport's Made Fresh Daily bakeshop—over the Brooklyn Bridge—to Dumbo Boulders.

Made Fresh Daily is a sweet café in hundred year old former ice-house on cobblestoned Front Street. Their name says it all: everything they serve is Made Fresh Daily including housemade hummus, soups, chilis, and baked goods. The Weekend Brunch menu includes pancakes, all kinds of delicious eggs, sandwiches and salads.

The bike ride itself is a breathtaking twenty minutes best done in the early morning before the crowds. Be sure to bring sunscreen, sunglasses and/or a hat because there is no shade on the bridge. (And practice Brooklyn Bridge etiquette - staying in the bike lane).

At Dumbo Boulders where you can exert yourself climbing with a $9 daypass (gear included). 

If you're new to Citibike - you can go online to ensure there are bikes available at Peck Slip and Front Street just a block from the bakeshop.  Even better, download the Citibike app. Pay right at the docking station with a credit card ($13.50 for a day pass that allows you to ride 30 minutes at a time before checking in or docking). We like to request a paper receipt to keep track of our docking code. Just enter your code and your bike will be unlocked. Then use the app to find a convenient docking station when you get to Brooklyn. There you can pick up another bike anytime throughout the day to explore Brooklyn Bridge park, or head back to Manhattan. 

 

Summer's tangy orange-rhubarb compote

Our friend Luise once turned her rhubarb harvest into a beautiful rhubarb feast - rhubarb squares, rhubarb-pops, rhubarb compote. Last time we rode the train together on a Friday night she told me this recipe and my guests were licking it off their plates that Saturday night. Serve it with scones, crepes, vanilla ice-cream, a lemon-ricotta tart or just a spoon.  

Serves 6

  • 8 stalks rhubarb
  • 2 oranges (zest and juice)
  • .5 cup sugar
  1. Preheat oven to 450F.
  2. Scrub rhubarb and orange clean with vegetable brush under running water.
  3. Trim edges of rhubarb, cut into 2 inch lengths, toss into roasting pan.
  4. Zest oranges, juice oranges, add to rhubarb.
  5. Sprinkle rhubarb with .5 cup sugar (or more depending on how tart you like it).
  6. Roast for 20 minutes or less (until rhubarb is soft but not has not collapsed).

Road Trip: New York's Schoharie Valley

New York's Schoharie Valley has a rich pre-colonial history—home to the Mohawk who had a lucrative fur trade with the French, Dutch, British and German colonists.  It was also occupied by migrating tribes of the Iroquois on its Western border. 

General George Washington's rebel troups considered the fertile Valley  "The Bread Basket of the Revolution" for growing wheat to sustain them in their fight against the British. 

The roads winding through the Valley offer spectacular views and reveal many towns whose cafés, general stores, and brick oven pizzerias are worth a stop.

This Schoharie Valley guide will help you plan your excursion. Consider a visit to Howe Caverns where you can explore the underground cavern by boat and pan for stones,  The Old Stone Museum Fort, and other historic sites

Just south of Schoharie, in neighboring Delaware County, is Bloomville's Table on Ten —a great home base from which to explore. 

AirBnB: Table on Ten, Bloomville, New York

Bloomville's Table on Ten is a great home base for exploring the Catskill Mountains or Schoharie Valley. This beautifully preserved 1860's house is home to a café and an inn.

We love the attic whose wrap around windows, king-sized bed, exposed beams, will welcome you home. Just before our visit (booked through AirBnB), an architect stayed in the attic and left a detailed drawing for improving it with a private bath. Today you'll find a clawfoot tub central to the design. 

If you plan your trip over a long weekend, you can not only eat breakfast at the café but enjoy its renowned brick oven pizza. We're going to shoot for July 4 one year just to gorge on Table on Ten pies. Don't be shy about gathering tips about the area from the friendly staff. And use the Table on Ten website itself to do a little research about their purveyors - including local farms you might visit along the way.

Labels for the Kitchen Garden

You may already be harvesting the sweet peas you pushed into the earth in late February but now is the time to begin succession planting new peas, radishes, baby beets, carrots and lettuce.

To make the initial one inch furrows and keep track of just what you plant  - consider labeling tongue depressors with a white grease pencil. They'll hold up for one season and can then be tossed into the compost.

Irish Hunger Memorial

Yellow Flag Iris, Burnet Rose and Cross-leaved Heath cling to the hillside that is the Irish Hunger Memorial in lower Manhattan. It's transcending to climb this half-acre of country side which includes the foundation of designer Brian Tolle's ancestral stone cottage transported from County Mayo, Ireland—"an expression of solidarity to those who left from those who stayed behind."  

Tolle memorializes the loss of 1.5 million Irish during the Great Famine of 1845-52 brought on by the potato blight and a host of complex political issues. The famine took roughly 20% of the population of Ireland and, by 1890, 40% of the Irish population was living abroad.

From the top of the hillside—25 feet above Manhattan streets—one has a view of the Statue of Liberty and Ellis Island through which millions of Irish emigrated to the United States. This beautiful, feral landscape changes throughout the year —with dozens of hardy native Irish plants growing among the 32 stones representing each of Ireland's counties. If you are a Geocache fan, there is a great puzzle to solve in finding the capsule hidden here.

Vesey Street and North End Avenue.

Open 8am to 9pm between May 1st - October 31st, and from 8am to 6:45PM from November - April.

Hudson Valley Bottle Shop

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Inspired by antique bottles he unearthed as a boy, Kevin De Martine's thirty year old Bottle Shop in Salt Point, New York is a treasure trove.  Each room has a theme—bottles, earthenware, tools, kitchen implements, old tins and cigar boxes—and it is meticulously organized.

Between the old carriage house and barn that make up the shop is an outdoor space full of antique metal work and other things that standup to the elements. 

 Open 11-7 except Tuesdays.

The Bottle Shop, 2552 RT 44, Salt Point, NY, 845-677-3638

Lemony Sweet Corn and Sweet Pea Salad

This is a tart twist on the three bean salad that includes farm fresh summer corn, sweet peas and lemon thyme.

Julienne two cups of sweet peas lengthwise. Remove kernels from one fresh ear of corn. Mix with 15 ounces of chickpeas and 15 ounces of black soybeans (either drained and rinsed from a can or freshly soaked overnight).

Put the juice of one lemon (roughly 1/2 cup) and an equal amount of olive oil in a jar with a tablespoon (or less) of dijon mustard and a tablespoon of fresh lemon thyme leaves. Shake to emulsify. Add sea salt and fresh cracked pepper to taste.

Toss together vegetables and vinaigrette and chill for about an hour before enjoying. You can also throw the last few servings of this into a summer salad or gazpacho.